The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway offers one of the most unique train journeys in the world. Seeing the ‘Toy Train’ gracefully winding around the Batasia Loop, known as one of the most photographed railway sites globally, would fill any visitor’s heart with joy
By Subhasish Chakraborty
In 2019, Darjeeling enchanted its admirers with a rare spectacle – snowfall on the 26th of December. For residents of Kolkata, who endure scorching tropical sun for most of the year, this news was a refreshing change. Excitement filled the air and air tickets to Bagdogra, the airport nearest to Darjeeling, were quickly sold out. Luckily, my connections with Spice Jet secured me a ticket, and with the sole purpose of experiencing the snowy wonderland, I boarded the morning flight to Bagdogra.
Arriving in Darjeeling around 2 PM, I had already booked my stay at the renowned Glenburn Tea Estate Bungalow. I intended to immerse myself in the uninterrupted sight of snow in this charming hill station. As I approached the estate, I was greeted by a captivating scene: the entire tea estate and its surroundings were adorned with a four-inch blanket of dazzling white snow over lush green tea garden. Locals and visitors alike joyfully engaged in snowball fights, reminiscent of a scene from a “Mills & Boons” novel.
According to the manager of Glenburn Tea Estate, the last time Darjeeling witnessed similar snowfall way back in February 1985. From the upscale and elegant Glenburn Tea Estate Bungalow, I was treated to an awe-inspiring view of Kanchenjunga, the world’s third-highest peak, right outside my window. The snow-covered landscape, with majestic pine trees, blooming Rhododendrons, Primulas, Magnolias, Orchids, and charming houses, presented a stunning kaleidoscope of colors.
Glenburn Tea Estate is a destination in itself, with a legacy dating back to 1860. Originally conceptualised by a Scottish tea company, it was later taken over by the House of Prakashes, fondly known as the “Chaiwala Family” in Indian tea circles. With a century of tea manufacturing experience, Glenburn offers its discerning guests the opportunity to indulge in tea tasting, factory visits, immersive cultural experiences, and sustainable environmental initiatives. It is worth noting that all fruits and vegetables grown on the estate are 100% organic, making the experience truly eco-friendly.
Staying at the Bungalow was a rare delight. The Burra Bungalow and The Water Lily Bungalow, with their colonial charm and decor featuring old Burma teak floors, cast-iron window frames, and intimate balconies, offered an unparalleled Himalayan experience.
I highly recommend the “Walking Tour” to prospective visitors. Not only is it refreshing, but it also offers delightful downhill trails that anyone in good shape can enjoy. A visit to the tea factory is also a must. Witnessing the process of tea leaf collection, weighing, and the various stages of manufacturing, such as withering, rolling, fermenting, drying, and sorting, is truly eye-opening. Guests are also treated to unique tea-tasting experiences, with a wide array of blends, aromas, and flavors to savor.
Like many visitors to Darjeeling, I was captivated by the charm of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railways (DHR). My fascination with the DHR began during a nostalgic trip on the famous “Toy Train” in 2010, which forever changed my perception of rail travel in India. Since being declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the awareness and recognition of DHR have soared, thanks to the efforts of the London-based Darjeeling Himalayan Railway Society.
I firmly believe that the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway offers one of the most unique train journeys in the world. Seeing the “Toy Train” gracefully winding around the Batasia Loop, known as one of the most photographed railway sites globally, fills my heart with joy. During my recent visit to the Batasia Loop, I sought a vantage point suggested by my local Nepalese friend from DHR. From there, I witnessed an incredible sight: the train hanging on a spur, with nothing but space beneath it. The squealing wheels and the constant whistle of the engine created an awe-inspiring yet slightly engaging experience.
I was also impressed by the recent initiatives undertaken by the DHR Club to promote awareness of this unique railway system. They have launched custom-designed notebooks and greeting cards, beautifully crafted by two talented school children from Darjeeling. The funds generated from these initiatives contribute to the further improvement of the DHR. Additionally, the DHR Club has introduced a leaflet called “My Diary of a Train Journey,” designed exclusively for children to fill in with answers about the DHR while onboard the toy train, with an eye on engaging children and inculcating in them sentimental attachment to the Toy Train.
Darjeeling offers several tourist landmarks, including the Natural History Museum, Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park, Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, Shrubbery Park, Observatory Hill, Darjeeling-Rangeet Valley Passenger Ropeway, Lloyd’s Botanical Garden, and Tiger Hill, among others.
The Natural History Museum, conveniently located near the town’s main promenade, showcases a collection of rare Himalayan fauna. The Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park, perched at an altitude of 2,133.5 meters, is a unique zoo known for its residents, including the endangered Tibetan Wolf, Snow Leopard, and Siberian Tiger. The backdrop of the majestic Kanchenjunga adds to the splendor of this remarkable zoo, where the Red Panda steals the show.
Mountaineering has gained popularity in Darjeeling, the birthplace of the renowned Nepali-Indian mountaineer Tenzing Norgay, who, along with Edmund Hillary, was the first to conquer Mount Everest. The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, in collaboration with the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, has been providing exceptional services in the field of Himalayan mountaineering.
The Darjeeling-Rangeet Valley Ropeway is another irresistible attraction. This mono-cable ropeway connects Darjeeling with Bijanbari and offers an exhilarating ride. Initially, I felt a sense of fear due to the height, as the ride descends from a height of 7,000 feet at North Point to a low of 800 feet. According to the operator, this ropeway is not only the largest passenger ropeway in India but in all of Asia.
During my visit, I made it a point to experience the romantic charm of Tiger Hill at sunrise. I had requested a wake-up call at 4 AM, and to my surprise, the bellboy not only arrived on time but had also arranged a cab. When the chauffeur failed to arrive on time, the bellboy volunteered to drive me to Tiger Hill and back. This epitomizes the quality of service with a personal touch, a characteristic of the world-famous Glenburn Tea Estate.
As we journeyed through the narrow streets of Darjeeling, passing by Ghoom, we reached the peak of the hill. At 8,507 feet, tourists had already gathered, awaiting the rising sun. Within an hour, the mesmerizing sight of the glowing red orb emerging from the far horizon, amidst the snow-capped Himalayan peaks, captivated our attention. For first-time visitors like me, witnessing the sunrise at Tiger Hill was a truly sublime experience.
Darjeeling is situated in the heart of Gorkha territory. The Gorkhas, known for their military prowess, have carved a niche for themselves in the Indian Army. They are hospitable and easily recognizable by their sturdy build and the “Khukri” knives strapped to their waists. The region is also home to a significant population of Bhutias of Tibetan origin who settled in Darjeeling to escape the persecution of Tibetans by China’s Red Army.
When it comes to shopping, Darjeeling offers numerous shops scattered throughout the town. Popular curio shops can be found in areas like Chowrasta, Chowk Bazar, Laden La Road, Nehru Road, Motor Stand, and the Mahakal Market. Tibetan Thangkas, intricately designed carpets, and wooden engravings are highly sought after by visitors. For quality silk and handicraft products, the Manusha Emporium on Nehru Road is a trusted choice. Nathumull’s on Laden La Road is renowned for its authentic Darjeeling Tea and is a favorite among tourists.
Traveler’s Fact File: Getting There: (Let it be Box Item on the last page)
• By Air: The nearest airport is Bagdogra, which is well-connected to Kolkata and Delhi. Airlines such as Indian Airlines and Spice Jet operate regular flights to Bagdogra.
• By Rail: The nearest railway station is New Jalpaiguri, which is serviced by trains like Darjeeling Mail, Kanchanjunga Express, Rajdhani Express, Dadar-Guwahati Express, and Guwahati-Bangalore Express. Another unique way to reach Darjeeling is by embarking on a journey aboard the world-famous “Toy Train” from New Jalpaiguri Railway Station. The Toy Train journey takes approximately 7.5 hours. Accommodation: Darjeeling offers hotels to suit every budget. Up-market hotels like Windamere, Sterling Resorts, New Elgin Dekeling, Sinclairs, and Darjeeling Gymkhana provide exceptional mountain hospitality. These hotels offer spacious rooms with breathtaking views of the Himalayan peaks, including Kanchenjunga. The cuisine ranges from Continental to Chinese and Indian (Tandoori), and amenities such as fireplaces, running hot and cold water, and 24-hour room service ensure a comfortable stay. The pubs are well-stocked and provide a perfect place to unwind after a day of sightseeing.
For further information, please contact: Deputy Director of Tourism, Darjeeling Gorkha Hill Council, Silver Fir Building, The Mall, Darjeeling – 734301 Telephone: +91 354 2254879/2255351, Fax: +91 354 2254214
(A World Tourism Organization consultant and Kolkata-based travel journalist for decades, the writer has been associated with various in-flight magazines)
